Today is Learn About Butterflies Day!

This is Learn About Butterflies Day, because it’s important to start learning about butterflies before they return to our yards in the springtime. Did you know that monarchs travel between 2,500 and 3,000 miles when they migrate from Mexico to the Northern U.S. or Southern Canada?

Groom Your Dog

Dog Grooming Tips from Belchertown Veterinary Hospital

The team at Belchertown Veterinary Hospital knows that you want your pet to be comfortable as well as healthy, and one great way to achieve that is through basic at home grooming. We would like to share this article with you to teach you some tips and tricks about basic dog grooming, but as always, please contact us if you have any questions or concerns about your pet's health care needs.

Groom Your Dog

Snip, clip, wash and dry! Groom your dog like a pro.

Ever watched your dog roll on the ground, lick her coat or chew at a mat on her fur? These are her ways of keeping clean. Sometimes, though, she’ll need a little extra help from her friend to look her best.

Make Grooming as Enjoyable as Possible—For the Both of You!

Grooming sessions should always be fun, so be sure to schedule them when your dog’s relaxed, especially if she’s the excitable type. Until your pet is used to being groomed, keep the sessions short—just 5 to 10 minutes. Gradually lengthen the time until it becomes routine for your dog. You can help her get comfortable with being touched and handled by making a habit of petting every single part of your dog, including such potentially sensitive areas as the ears, tail, belly, back and feet.
And here’s one of our most important tips of all—pile on the praise and offer your pooch a treat when the session is finished!

Brushing

Regular grooming with a brush or comb will help keep your pet’s hair in good condition by removing dirt, spreading natural oils throughout her coat, preventing tangles and keeping her skin clean and irritant-free. And grooming time’s a great time to check for fleas and flea dirt--those little black specks that indicate your pet is playing host to a flea family.
If your dog has a smooth, short coat (like that of a chihuahua, boxer or basset hound), you only need to brush once a week: - First, use a rubber brush to loosen dead skin and dirt.
- Next, use a bristle brush to remove dead hair.
- Now, polish your low-maintenance pooch with a chamois cloth and she’s ready to shine!
If your dog has short, dense fur that’s prone to matting, like that of a retriever, here’s your weekly routine:
- Use a slicker brush to remove tangles.
- Next, catch dead hair with a bristle brush.
- Don’t forget to comb her tail.
If your dog has a long, luxurious coat, such as that of a Yorkshire terrier, she’ll need daily attention:
- Every day you’ll need to remove tangles with a slicker brush.
- Gently tease mats out with a slicker brush.
- Next, brush her coat with a bristle brush.
- If you have a long-haired dog with a coat like a collie’s or an Afghan hound’s, follow the steps above, and also be sure to comb through the fur and trim the hair around the hocks and feet.

Bathing

The ASPCA recommends bathing your dog every 3 months or so; your pet may require more frequent baths in the summertime if she spends lots of time with your outdoors. Always use a mild shampoo that’s safe to use on dogs, and follow these easy steps:
- First, give your pet a good brushing to remove all dead hair and mats.
- Place a rubber bath mat in the bathtub to provide secure footing, and fill the tub with about 3 to 4 inches of lukewarm water.
- Use a spray hose to thoroughly wet your pet, taking care not to spray directly in her ears, eyes or nose. If you don’t have a spray hose, a large plastic pitcher or unbreakable cup will do.
- Gently massage in shampoo, working from head to tail.
- Thoroughly rinse with a spray hose or pitcher; again, avoid the ears, eyes and nose.
- Check the ears for any foul odors or excessive debris; if you choose to use a cleansing solution on a cotton ball, take care not to insert it into the ear canal.
- Dry your pet with a large towel or blow dryer, but carefully monitor the level of heat.
Please note: Some animals seem to think that bathtime is a perfect time to act goofy. Young puppies especially will wiggle and bounce all over the place while you try to brush them, and tend to nip at bathtime. If this sounds like your pet, put a toy that floats in the tub with her so she can focus on the toy rather than on mouthing you.

Nail Clipping

Most people really don’t handle their dog’s feet until they are about to clip the nails and then…watch out! Some animals can get very upset at this totally foreign feeling. That’s why it’s a good idea to get your dog used to having her feet touched before you attempt a nail trim. Rub your hand up and down her leg and then gently press each individual toe—and be sure to give her lots of praise and some food treats as you do this. Every animal is different, but chances are that within a week or two of daily foot massage, your dog will be better able to tolerate a trim. Here’s how to do it:
- Begin by spreading each of your dog’s feet to inspect for dirt and debris.
- Use sharp, guillotine-type nail clippers to cut off the tip of each nail at a slight angle, just before the point where it begins to curve.
- Take care to avoid the quick, a vein that runs into the nail. This pink area can be seen through the nail. If your dog has black nails, however, the quick will not be as easily discernible, so be extra careful.
- If you do accidentally cut into the quick, it may bleed, in which case you can apply some styptic powder to stop the bleeding.
- Once the nails have been cut, use an emery board to smooth any rough edges.

Special Breeds, Special Needs

Dogs with loose facial skin or wrinkles—such as shar peis and pugs—will need special attention. To prevent dirt and bacteria from causing irritation and infection, clean the folds with damp cotton. Always thoroughly dry the areas between the folds.
If your dog has long or droopy ears, you should check them weekly. Remove wax and dirt from your pet’s ears with a cotton ball moistened with water or a little mineral oil. You may need to remove any excess hair leading into the ear canal; ask your pet’s vet or groomer to show you how before trying it at home. There are special hair removers that allow you to carefully pull one strand at a time.

Originally published by the ASPCA.

Have a Heart for Chained Dogs Week

This week is set aside for animal lovers who “Have a Heart for Chained Dogs.” Did you know that there are communities across the United States that DO have laws regarding chaining? Click the link below for information about communities that have banned or regulated chaining in their animal protection ordinance.

http://www.unchainyourdog.org/Laws.htm

Dog Training Education Month

This month is Dog Training Education Month, a time to get familiar with dog training techniques and start learning how to finish the process of training your dog. In spite of popular opinion, many old dogs can learn new tricks, and so can people. In order to train our dogs well, sometimes we have to learn a thing or two about how our dogs’ minds work. 

The team at Belchertown Veterinary Hospital would like to remind you about the importance of having a well-trained dog. Sure, they might not be jumping through hoops for you (literally), but you want them to be well-behaved. Ask us for our Belchertown, MA training recommendations!

Winter Care for Canines

General Concerns

Winter's cold air brings many concerns for responsible dog owners. Keep the following precautions in mind:

• Don't leave your dog outside in the cold for long periods of time. Wind chill makes days colder than actual temperature readings. Be attentive to your dog's body temperature, and limit its time outdoors.
• Adequate shelter is a necessity. Keep your dog warm, dry and away from drafts. Tiles and uncarpeted areas may become extremely cold, so make sure to place blankets and pads on floors in these areas.
• Be extra careful when walking or playing with your dog near frozen lakes, rivers or ponds. Your dog could slip or jump in and get seriously injured.
• Groom your dog regularly. Your dog needs a well-groomed coat to keep properly insulated. Short- or coarse-haired dogs may get extra cold, so consider a sweater or coat. Long-haired dogs should have excess hair around the toes and foot pads trimmed to ease snow removal and cleaning. If you do the trimming, take care not to cut the pads or other delicate area of the foot.
• Feed your dog additional calories if it spends a lot of time outdoors or is a working animal. It takes more energy in the winter to keep body temperature regulated, so additional calories are necessary.
• Towel or blow-dry your dog if it gets wet from rain or snow. It is important to dry and clean its paws, too. This helps avoid tiny cuts and cracked pads. A little petroleum jelly may soften the pads and prevent further cracking.
• Don't leave your dog alone in a car without proper precautions. If the car engine is left on, the carbon monoxide will endanger your dog's life. If the engine is off, the temperature in the car will get too cold.

Health Tips

Dogs cannot talk to us when they are sick. As a responsible dog owner, it is important to pay special attention to your dog's well-being during the winter season. Remember the following health concerns:

• Antifreeze, which often collects on driveways and roadways, is highly poisonous. Although it smells and tastes good to your dog, it can be lethal.
• Rock salt, used to melt ice on sidewalks, may irritate footpads. Be sure to rinse and dry your dog's feet after a walk.
• Provide plenty of fresh water. Your dog is just as likely to get dehydrated in the winter as in the summer. Snow is not a satisfactory substitute for water.
• Frostbite is your dog's winter hazard. To prevent frostbite on its ears, tail and feet, don't leave your dog outdoors for too long.
• Be very careful of supplemental heat sources. Fireplaces and portable heaters can severely burn your dog. Make sure all fireplaces have screens, and keep portable heaters out of reach.
• Like people, dogs seem to be more susceptible to illness in the winter. Take your dog to a veterinarian if you see any suspicious symptoms.
• Don't use over-the-counter medications on your dog without consulting a veterinarian.

Holiday Safeguards

The winter season brings lots of fun holiday festivities, but pet-owners should keep in mind the following special precautions:

• The holidays are not ideal for introducing a pet into your family. New puppies and dogs require extra attention and a stable environment, which the holiday season doesn't permit. Also, a puppy is not a toy or gift that can be returned. Instead, the AKC suggests giving a gift representative of the dog to come, such as a toy, a leash, or a bed.
• Holly, mistletoe and poinsettia plants are pet poisons! Make sure they are kept in places your dog cannot reach.
• Review holiday gifts for dogs to make sure they are safe. Items such as plastic toys and small rawhide sticks may be dangerous.
• Remove holiday lights from lower branches of your tree. They may get very hot and burn dogs.
• Watch out for electrical cords. Pets often try to chew them and may get badly shocked or electrocuted. Place wires out of reach.
• Avoid using glass ornaments. They break easily and may cut a dog's feet and mouth.
• Refrain from using edible ornaments. Your dog may knock the tree over in an attempt to eat them. Also, commercial ornaments may contain paint or toxins in the preservatives.
• Whether your tree is live or artificial, both kinds of needles are sharp and indigestible. Don't leave your dog unattended in the room with the tree.
• Tinsel is dangerous for dogs. It may obstruct circulation and, if swallowed, block the intestines.
• Alcohol and chocolate are toxic for dogs, even in small amounts. Keep unhealthy, sweet treats and seasonal goodies out of reach.
• The holiday season is a stressful time for dogs. Try to keep a normal schedule during all the excitement.

 

Originally published by the AKC.

New Pet? Pet-Proof Your Home

A new pet is more than an adorable bundle of fur; it's also a big responsibility. That pesky puppy or curious kitten can find lots of ways to get into trouble, and — contrary to popular opinion — pets don't always intuitively know what can be potentially harmful to eat or drink. A pet's safety always comes first, but you'll also want to take steps to safeguard your furniture, carpeting, and other belongings (including that favorite pair of shoes). Read on for tips that will help you pet-proof your home.

Pet Safety: Gates and Latches
"The most common injury in new pets that I see in my practice is puppies falling off beds, sofas, and other high furniture," says Ernest Ward, Jr., D.V.M., the founder and chief of staff at Seaside Animal Care in Calabash, North Carolina, and a regular guest on The Rachael Ray Show. To prevent such falls, keep your pet off high furniture — a rule that holds for kittens too, says Ward.
It's also important to restrict a new pet's access to your home by shutting off rooms with a closed door or child gates. "This not only prevents accidental injury but also can help curtail house-soiling problems," says Ward. Establishing boundaries for your puppy or kitten early on leads to a well-trained adult animal.

Household Cleaners, Chemicals, and Plants
While your pet is still getting accustomed to its new home, install childproof latches on cabinet doors and keep household chemicals and cleaners — such as bleach, ammonia, and antifreeze — well sealed and out of your pet's reach.

For dogs, the most dangerous common toxin is antifreeze, says Dr. Louise Murray, D.V.M., director of medicine at the ASPCA's Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital in New York City and author of Vet Confidential: An Insider's Guide to Protecting Your Pet's Health. "A dog may lick it off the floor while its owner is working on a car," she says.
For cats, the most dangerous toxin is the lily, which can cause fatal kidney failure if even a leaf is nibbled. Other common houseplants are also toxic to dogs and cats; ask your veterinarian for a list.

"People Food" and Other Common Pet Dangers
Ward recommends that animals of all ages be kept away from "people food" — onions, garlic, chocolate, and raisins, in particular, are harmful to pets.

Pet medicine is designed to taste good to dogs, which can tempt them to chew through the bottles, leading to overdose. Some owners give their pets medications meant for people, such as ibuprofen, a hazardous practice that can cause damage to pets' intestines and kidneys. Murray recommends keeping human and pet medications separate, and keeping both safely stored away.
For further information on poisonous household items, visit the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control FAQ.

Electrical cords are another potential hazard, says Ward, because teething puppies enjoy chewing on squishy wires. Unplug unnecessary cords and purchase protective covers for outlets and power strips.

The Great Outdoors
Many pet owners believe that their new pets' instincts will keep them away from harm, a common assumption that can seriously endanger pets left free to roam outdoors. "Their instincts were designed for a world we don't live in today," says Murray.

Letting dogs and cats run loose outside can lead to fights with other animals, as well as injuries from cars and people. Murray recommends keeping dogs on a leash at all times outside. Cats should be kept indoors for the most part, although they can be allowed to venture into a backyard if they're kept on a leash under their owner's supervision.


Originally published by Everyday Health.

Pet Food and Nutrition

INTRODUCTION

While there is certain basic information all pet food labels must have on them by law, manufacturers can still be quite 'creative' in trying to convey attributes of their products on packaging. After all, pet foods, like most other goods purchased by people, 'compete' in a very competitive marketplace. That is why the history, philosophy, reputation, integrity and leadership of the company is so important in helping your team make the correct nutritional decisions for your practice and for your clients. This module will help you understand pet food labels, making you even more valuable as a resource for accurate information.

LABEL DESIGN 

A pet food label is divided into two main parts:

•  The Principal Display Panel 
• The Information Panel 

The principal display panel is the primary means of attracting the pet owner's attention to a product and should immediately communicate the product identity (see Figure 1). The information panel is defined as "that part of the label immediately contiguous and to the right of the principal display panel" and usually contains important information about the product. In the United States and some other countries, several items are required by law to be included on the principal display panel and information panel (Table 1).

PRINCIPAL DISPLAY PANEL

Product Identity

The product identity is the primary means by which pet owners identify a specific pet food. In the United States, the product identity must include a product name, but may also include a manufacturer's name, a brand name, or both. The brand name is the name by which pet food products of a given company are identified and usually conveys the overall image of the product. The product name provides information about the individual identity of the particular product within the brand.

Pet foods are best assessed initially by looking at the product name on the principal display panel. The product name is usually descriptive of the food and in the United States is subject to AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) regulations about composition of ingredients. Percentage rules are important. Let's use beef ingredients as an example:

• The term "Beef" in a product name requires that beef ingredients be 95% or more of the total weight of all ingredients (exclusive of water used in processing).
• The term "Beef dinner," "Beef platter," "Beef entree" or any similar designation requires that beef ingredients be at least 25% but not more than 95% of the total weight of all ingredients (exclusive of water used in processing).
• The term "With Beef" requires that beef ingredients be at least 3% of the total product (exclusive of water used in processing).
• The term "Beef flavor" only requires that beef is "recognizable by the pet." The beef flavor. designation usually indicates that beef is less than 3% of the total product. An ingredient that gives the characterizing flavor (e.g., beef digest, beef by-products) can be used instead of the actual named flavor, beef. 

In the United States, the maximum moisture content in all pet foods should not exceed 78% unless they consist of stew, gravy, broth, juice, or a milk replacer that is so labeled. High-moisture pet foods in cans, trays or pouches will have a product name with the terms "in sauce," "in aspic," "in gravy," "in meaty juices," or some similar designation.
 

Designator

The words "dog food" or "cat food" or some similar terminology is called the Designator or Statement of Intent and must appear conspicuously on the principal display panel of pet foods sold in the United States. These terms clearly identify the animal for which the product is intended and that the product is not for human consumption.

Net Weight

Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulations state that the principal display panel shall bear a declaration of the net quantity of contents. The term net weight is used most often. Net weight descriptions must be placed on the principal display panel within the bottom 30% of the panel in lines generally parallel to the base of the package.

Product Vignette

The term product vignette refers to a vignette, graphic, or pictorial representation of a product on a pet food label. The picture or other depiction of the product or ingredients on the label should not look better than the actual product or ingredients.

Bursts and Flags

Bursts and flags are areas of the principal display panel that are designed to highlight information or provide specific information with visual impact. New products, formula or ingredient changes, and improvements in taste are most often highlighted. The time allowed for a burst or flag to be on the label varies with the type of information. "New" or "New & Improved" can only appear on the label for six months, whereas a comparison such as "Preferred 4 to 1 over the leading national brand" can remain on the label for one year, unless re-substantiated.
 

Nutrition Statements

Nutrition statements appearing on the principal display panel are usually brief. Examples include "complete and nutritious," "100% complete nutrition," "Dogs 1-6 years" or some similar designation. A nutritional adequacy statement on the information panel must substantiate nutrition claims such as these on the principal display panel. Manufacturers can substantiate these nutrition claims by meeting the appropriate AAFCO nutrient profile or successfully completing a protocol feeding trial. Nutrition claims substantiation is discussed in more detail below.

INFORMATION PANEL

Ingredient Statement

The ingredient panel provides general information about which ingredients were used to make a given pet food and their relative amounts. Pet foods sold in the United States must list each ingredient of the food in the ingredient statement. Ingredients are listed in descending order by their predominance by weight according to the product's formula. AAFCO has established the name and definition of a wide variety of ingredients. The ingredient names must conform to the AAFCO name (e.g., poultry by-product meal) or should be identified by the common or usual name (e.g., beef, lamb, chicken).

The ingredient panel can be useful if specific ingredients are contraindicated for certain animals or an owner has an ingredient concern. This is especially important if a pet has an allergy to an ingredient in a food. However, reviewing a pet food label provides no information about the quality of the ingredients used. Contacting the manufacturer or nutrition experts for additional information is the best way to compare the quality of pet foods.
 
The nutritive value of ingredients cannot be identified from the ingredient statement. A pet owner must rely on the reputation or word of the manufacturer to assess the nutritive value of the ingredients appearing on the list. Pet food additives such as vitamins, minerals, antioxidant preservatives, antimicrobial preservatives, humectants, coloring agents, flavors, palatability enhancers, and emulsifying agents that are added by the manufacturer must be listed in the ingredient statement.
 

Guaranteed Analysis

In the United States, pet food manufacturers are required to include minimum percentages for crude protein and crude fat and maximum percentages for crude fiber and moisture. Guarantees for other nutrients may follow moisture, but a nutrient need not be listed unless its presence is highlighted elsewhere on the label (e.g., "contains taurine," "calcium enriched"). These percentages generally indicate the "worst case" levels for these nutrients in the food and do not reflect the exact or typical amounts of these nutrients. See Figures 10 and 13 for Guaranteed Analysis examples from Science Diet® products.
 

• Crude Protein (Minimum % on label)
• Crude protein refers to specific analytical procedure that estimates protein content by measuring nitrogen. Crude protein is an index of protein quantity but does not indicate protein quality (amino acid profile) or digestibility. Crude Fat (Minimum % on label)
• Crude fat refers to specific analytical procedure that estimates the lipid content of a food. Because fats have more than twice the energy density of protein and carbohydrates, crude fat can be used to estimate the energy density of the food. If the moisture and crude fiber content of two foods are somewhat similar, the food with the higher crude fat guarantee will usually have the higher energy density. Crude Fiber (Maximum % on label)
• Crude fiber represents what remains (mostly cellulose and lignin) after plant material has been treated with certain solutions. Crude fiber is an estimate of the indigestible portion of the food.

Moisture (Maximum % on label)

Small differences in moisture content of canned pet foods can result in marked differences in dry matter content and therefore the economics of feeding a given pet food. The dry matter content of the food contains all of the nutrients except water.
 
What appears to be a small difference in water content of a food produces a marked difference in dry matter content. Guarantees are usually expressed on an "as is" or "as fed" basis. It is important to remember to convert these guarantees to a dry matter basis when comparing foods with differing moisture content (e.g., canned vs. dry foods). The Commercial Pet Foods module covers this concept more fully.
 

Ash

Ash consists of all noncombustible materials in the food, usually salt and other minerals. Some companies just list 'Ash' (which is legally acceptable). Others, like Hill's®, break down the ash content on the label even further (calcium, phosphorus, magnesium…). A high-ash content in dry and semi-moist foods may indicate a high magnesium content. Excessive magnesium intake may be one risk factor for feline struvite urolithiasis.
Nutritional Adequacy Statement

Since 1984, regulations in the United States have required that all pet food labels, with the exception of products clearly labeled as treats and snacks, contain a statement and validation of nutritional adequacy (product description). When a claim of "complete and balanced," "100% nutritious," or some similar designation is used, manufacturers must indicate the method and lifestage that was used to substantiate this claim.

AAFCO regulations allow two basic methods to substantiate claims.

• The Formulation Method requires that the manufacturer formulate the food to meet the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles or Cat Food Nutrient Profiles.
• The Feeding Trial (protocol) Method requires that the manufacturer perform an AAFCO-protocol feeding trial using the food as the sole source of nutrition. 

AAFCO nutrient profiles are published for two categories: 1) growth and reproduction and 2) adult maintenance. The formulation method allows the manufacturer to substantiate a "complete and balanced" claim by calculating the nutrient content of a food using standard nutrient information about ingredients. Table 2 lists some of the wording that connotes this type of claim. The formulation method is less expensive and time-consuming, but has been criticized because it does not account for acceptability of the food or nutrient availability.
 
The feeding trial (protocol) method is the preferred method for substantiating a claim. Feeding tests can result in a nutritional adequacy claim for one or more of the following categories: 1) gestation and lactation, 2) growth, 3) maintenance, and 4) complete for all lifestages. AAFCO has published minimum testing protocols for adult maintenance, growth, and gestation/lactation. A food that successfully completes a sequential growth and gestation/lactation trial can make a claim for all lifestages.
 
The required terminology for labels of pet foods that have passed these tests is as follows: "Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (brand) provides complete and balanced nutrition for (lifestage)." The inclusion of the term "feeding test," "AAFCO feeding studies," or "AAFCO feeding protocols" in a nutritional adequacy statement supports the idea that the food has successfully completed a minimum feeding protocol (Table 2).

AAFCO feeding trials are minimum protocols. This type of test will usually detect nutrient deficiencies but might not detect some nutrient excesses that may be harmful when fed over a longer period.
Commercial pet foods that have undergone AAFCO-prescribed feeding tests provide reasonable assurance of nutrient availability and sufficient palatability to ensure acceptability (i.e., food intake sufficient to meet nutrient needs).

Pet foods that are clearly labeled as snacks or treats may make a nutritional adequacy claim but are not required to do so. Pet foods that do not meet AAFCO requirements by either of the standard methods will have a nutritional statement as follows: "This product is intended for intermittent or supplemental feeding only."
There are certain products (such as Hill's® Prescription Diet® formulas) that are intended for use by, or under the supervision or direction of a veterinarian. These products will state this fact, which is important in regards to keeping the client in contact with the veterinary health care team. The food must include a supplemental feeding statement or the appropriate AAFCO lifestage claim.

Few, if any, homemade recipes have been animal tested according to prescribed feeding protocols.

Feeding Guidelines

In the United States, dog and cat foods labeled as complete and balanced for any or all lifestages must list feeding directions on the product label. These directions must be expressed in common terms and must appear prominently on the label. Feeding directions should, at a minimum, state, "Feed (weight/unit of product) per (weight unit) of dog (or cat)" and frequency of feeding. These feeding statements are general guidelines at best. Because of individual variation, many animals will require more or less food than that recommended on the label to maintain optimal body condition and health. Feeding guidelines should always be considered starting points only. Once again, that is why your involvement in helping your clients with feeding recommendations and follow up is so important.


Material written by Belchertown Animal Hospital.